Construction Braies (linen shorts/ underwear)

Ok, so the braies are essential to the kit. From my research braies were worn by men of both classes and usually of a white or natural linen color. I went with Fabrics-store.com's IL019 Krista Natural. It is fairly light weight and easy to work with. I also stitched it with 5090 White linen thread from W.M. Draper.

After laying out and transferring it with pencil, I cut it out. simple enough to do, but linen is not the best for cutting straight lines. After I cut out all the pieces I started sewing right away. The first step was to sew the crotch piece to the leg. The pattern suggested a running stitch, which is problematic, (linen will fray and disintegrate with wear). So I opted to fell the seams with a double running stitch. (a felled seam is  one that is rolled on itself for strength) think of it like the seam on a pair of jeans. All steps are duplicated for both sides.

(photos by: K. Beckham)


The next step was to sew a running stitch along the back seam of the pant legs. most ancient and medieval pants put the seams along the back of the pants because, seams along the inside of the leg ware with horseback riding.

Both legs are now closed up and I notice there is room for me and a friend in these braies.

I felled this seam, this time instead of with another running stitch,  but with a whip stitch.

(photos by: K. Beckham)

After both seams are felled (again both sides of the seam need to be stitched so it doesn't bunch and become uncomfortable, and possibly tear out, I had to stitch the waistband with a running stitch.

(photo by: K. Beckham)

(photo by: K. Beckham)

The next step is to hem and sew on the belt loops, since knit fabrics were uncommon, all pants were belted. I had to cut 12 squares and hem the two sides. The quickest way is to double fold the fabric in on itself and use a running stitch. this was fairly quick, but still boring...

(photos by: K. Beckham)

The next step is to evenly space the finished belt loops, and stitch through all the fabric with a running stitch. I made sure not to have the hems on the belt loops and the felled seams, line up because that would have been nasty to sew through. I used a running stitch again to secure the loops on the braies.

(photos by: K. Beckham)

After all 12 loops are sewn on I had to make the belt for it. It could have been a linen or wool cord or a strip of fabric. I decided on a vegetable tanned leather belt cut 4 inches past my waist size, and 2 cm wide. I tapered the three inches from the ends. I soaked it in water for about 10 minutes and then stretched it to gain another four inches. now to let it dry then condition it with lanolin.

(photo by: K. Beckham)

Next step on this kit is a pair of chauses.